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Guide

Soakaway Installation: A Practical Guide

A soakaway is an underground pit or crate system that collects surface water and lets it seep slowly into the surrounding ground. It only works where the soil can absorb water, so installation should always start with a simple percolation test rather than a spade in the nearest corner.

What a soakaway does and when you need one

Rainwater from a roof, patio or hard surface has to end up somewhere, and a soakaway returns it to the ground on your own property. You may need one when a new patio or extension adds hard surface, when a garden drain needs an outlet, or when a downpipe currently empties onto the lawn. Non-permeable driveways are another common reason, because rain must not run onto the road. Soakaways are designed for surface water only. Foul water from toilets, sinks or washing machines must never go into one, as it would contaminate the ground.

  • Roof downpipes with no drain connection
  • New patios and hard landscaping
  • Outlets for land drains and French drains
  • Non-permeable driveways on a front garden

The percolation test comes first

Whether a soakaway will work depends on how quickly the ground absorbs water, and that can only be found by testing. A trial hole is dug to the depth planned for the soakaway, filled with water, and timed as the level drops. The test is repeated, because the first fill often drains faster than wet ground will in practice. The results also show how big the soakaway should be for the area draining into it. BRE Digest 365 is the recognised method for this. A test in a dry summer can flatter the ground, so winter conditions should be kept in mind.

  • Dig a trial hole at the proposed depth
  • Fill it with water and time the drop
  • Repeat to see how wet ground behaves
  • Use the results to size the soakaway

Where a soakaway can go

Position matters as much as size. Building Regulations guidance says a soakaway should generally be at least 5 metres from a building or road, so that water does not undermine foundations. It should also be away from boundaries, in ground free of contamination, and not on unstable land or where the water table rises to its base. That rules out some small gardens and tight yards altogether. Before digging, check for pipes and cables, and keep clear of tree roots. If a building is close by, or the extension is under Building Control, get their sign-off on the design.

  • Generally 5 metres or more from buildings and roads
  • Well above the highest seasonal water table
  • Away from boundaries and neighbouring land
  • Clear of services, pipes and tree roots

Crates or rubble: which type of soakaway?

The traditional soakaway is a pit filled with clean stone or broken hardcore, and it still works in the right spot. Modern plastic crates are wrapped in a permeable geotextile and buried in the same way. Crates hold much more water for their size, since they are mostly empty space, so the excavation can be smaller. Rubble takes up much of the pit, which leaves less room for water. Either type needs a filter, such as a catchpit or silt trap, so that leaves and grit do not reach the soakaway and slowly choke it.

  • Crates: more storage in a smaller hole
  • Stone-filled pits: simple, traditional and robust
  • Geotextile wrap to keep soil out
  • Silt trap to make maintenance simple

What if your soil is clay?

Heavy clay is the most common reason a soakaway fails, because water sits in the pit and has nowhere to go. It can leave you with a hidden underground pond, and water may back up into the garden when it rains. If the test shows poor results, the answer is usually to reduce the amount of water going in, or use another route. Permeable paving, rain gardens or a water butt can help. Connecting to a surface water drain may be an option, but that will need approval from your water company.

  • Permeable surfaces that deal with rain where it falls
  • Rain gardens and planted areas
  • Water butts to capture roof water
  • Connection to a surface water sewer, with consent

How we approach soakaway installation

We usually install soakaways as part of a bigger job, such as a new patio, a garden drainage scheme or a driveway. Sean will look at your site, talk through testing and tell you plainly if a soakaway is not the right answer for your ground. Then we dig out, fit the soakaway, connect the pipework, reinstate the surface and take the spoil away. Because we do the landscaping too, the lawn or paving above can be finished properly afterwards. For a free visit in Pontefract or across West Yorkshire, call 07860 510073 or send us an enquiry.

Common questions

How long does a soakaway last?

A well-built soakaway with a silt trap can work for many years. Blockage from silt and leaves is the main threat, so keep any silt traps and gutters clear to help it keep working.

How do I know if my soakaway has failed?

Signs include water backing up from drains, wet patches over the soakaway area, or gullies that overflow during rain. Check that the pipes are clear first, as a blocked connection can look like a failed soakaway.

Do I need Building Regulations approval for a soakaway?

If it serves new building work, such as an extension, Building Control will normally want to see the design. For a simple garden scheme this may not apply, but the same guidance on siting is still sensible to follow.

Can a soakaway go under a driveway or patio?

Sometimes. Crates can be placed under a surface if they are rated for the load above and meet the distance rules. Access to the silt trap needs to be planned in, so it can still be cleaned later.

Ready for a free, no-obligation quote?

Sean will visit, measure up and bring samples.